Drop in the ocean — Last year, the 32-year-old rode a colossal 68-foot wave, conquering it at the same place she’d almost drowned five years prior. It was a crowning moment, one that saw her shattering a world record in the process. So what came next?
Written by: Alex Wade
Made of Stone — In an exclusive interview, the legendary waterman tells HUCK about his estranged father, his distrust of people, his love for red wine and Jimi Hendrix, and his boundless commitment to pursue what he calls his ‘art’.
Written by: Alex Wade