A new book chronicles almost half a century of the legendary east coast surfer’s diary entries.
Written by: Isaac Muk
Sign up to the new Huck Newsletter to get a personal take on the state of media and pop culture in your inbox every month from Emma Garland, former Digital Editor of Huck.
By signing up to the Huck newsletter you agree to receive electronic communications from Huck that may sometimes include advertisements or sponsored content and agree to our terms and conditions.
