The passion of West Virginia's last snake-handling church

Photographer Robert LeBlanc journeys to a small town in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains, where parishioners of The House of the Lord Jesus are fighting against the odds to keep a centuries-old ritual alive.

Nestled deep in the Appalachian Mountains of West Virginia lies Squire, an unincorporated community in McDowell County that takes its name from a local law enforcement officer. Although the coal industry shapes the area’s blue-collar conservative politics, McDowell County is one of the poorest in the nation.

“The land has made many people rich, but most don’t live in that region,” says photographer Robert LeBlanc. Once the natural resources have been extracted, companies ship out and abandon the communities they built, creating a virulent mix of environmental destruction and rural poverty. As is often the case when these forces collide, religion fills the void.

“Once you turn off the freeway, you begin to see churches pop up everywhere,” says LeBlanc. “As you get deeper into the mountains, the small towns you pass through are no longer than a mile long [with] no more than 100 to 150 people living in them. I remember thinking, how do they fill all these churches?” 

LeBlanc would discover the answer for himself. He’s spent the past five years with pastor Chris Wolford and his family, who run the notorious House of the Lord Jesus – said to be the last serpent-handling church in West Virginia. 

One of few remaining churches in the Pentecostal Signs denomination, the House of the Lord Jesus take the King James version of the Bible literally, following the Gospel of Mark 16:17-18, which extols believers to cast out devils, speak with new tongues, and take up deadly serpents for protection and healing. Snake handling is a centuries-old ritual, often involving drinking poison as a demonstration of the strength of their faith.

LeBlanc’s new book and exhibition, Gloryland, takes us inside this fabled sect. The project began as he traveled through the South, exploring a moment in American history where old beliefs and traditions are falling away under the relentless onslaught of late capitalism. On his journey, he connected with Wolford and spoke with the preacher for two months before attending his first service among the entire congregation. 

“I witnessed something extraordinary that probably wouldn’t be around in another 10 or 15 years,” says LeBlanc of the services, which include music he describes as “a clash of Southern gospel, Delta blues, and folk,” as well as the legendary snake-handling rituals. LeBlanc ultimately came to feel a sense of kinship with the Wolfords despite their ideological differences, and observes their displays of devotion with reverence. “They have taught me a lot about love, family, and believing in something so profoundly that they are willing to risk their lives twice a week for what they believe,” he says.

For LeBlanc, the idea behind Gloryland is about the search for something greater than oneself – and the arrival at one’s destination after the struggle is won. “Seeing their ability to still hold onto their faith against the odds is admirable,” he says. “They have been turned into a spectacle by almost every major media outlet and online bashing never stops, but they keep their heads up. As a congregation, they are bulletproof.

“West Virginians fight all odds as a community and help each other,” he adds. “Even though the world has forgotten about them.”

Find more of Robert LeBlanc’s work on Instagram.

Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.


Ad

Latest on Huck

Crowd of silhouetted people at a nighttime event with colourful lighting and a bright spotlight on stage.
Music

Clubbing is good for your health, according to neuroscientists

We Become One — A new documentary explores the positive effects that dance music and shared musical experiences can have on the human brain.

Written by: Zahra Onsori

Indoor skate park with ramps, riders, and abstract architectural elements in blue, white, and black tones.
Sport

In England’s rural north, skateboarding is femme

Zine scene — A new project from visual artist Juliet Klottrup, ‘Skate Like a Lass’, spotlights the FLINTA+ collectives who are redefining what it means to be a skater.

Written by: Zahra Onsori

Black-and-white image of two men in suits, with the text "EVERYTHING IS COMPUTER" in large bright yellow letters overlaying the image.
Culture

Donald Trump says that “everything is computer” – does he have a point?

Huck’s March dispatch — As AI creeps increasingly into our daily lives and our attention spans are lost to social media content, newsletter columnist Emma Garland unpicks the US President’s eyebrow-raising turn of phrase at a White House car show.

Written by: Emma Garland

A group of people, likely children, sitting around a table surrounded by various comic books, magazines, and plates of food.
© Michael Jang
Culture

How the ’70s radicalised the landscape of photography

The ’70s Lens — Half a century ago, visionary photographers including Nan Goldin, Joel Meyerowitz and Larry Sultan pushed the envelope of what was possible in image-making, blurring the boundaries between high and low art. A new exhibition revisits the era.

Written by: Miss Rosen

Silhouette of person on horseback against orange sunset sky, with electricity pylon in foreground.
Culture

The inner-city riding club serving Newcastle’s youth

Stepney Western — Harry Lawson’s new experimental documentary sets up a Western film in the English North East, by focusing on a stables that also functions as a charity for disadvantaged young people.

Written by: Isaac Muk

Couple sitting on ground in book-filled environment
Culture

The British intimacy of ‘the afters’

Not Going Home — In 1998, photographer Mischa Haller travelled to nightclubs just as their doors were shutting and dancers streamed out onto the streets, capturing the country’s partying youth in the early morning haze.

Written by: Ella Glossop

Signup to our newsletter

Sign up to stay informed from the cutting edge of sport, music and counterculture, with personal takes on the state of media and pop culture in your inbox every month from Emma Garland, former Digital Editor of Huck, exclusive interviews, recommendations and more.

Please wait...

Accessibility Settings

Text

Applies the Open Dyslexic font, designed to improve readability for individuals with dyslexia.

Applies a more readable font throughout the website, improving readability.

Underlines links throughout the website, making them easier to distinguish.

Adjusts the font size for improved readability.

Visuals

Reduces animations and disables autoplaying videos across the website, reducing distractions and improving focus.

Reduces the colour saturation throughout the website to create a more soothing visual experience.

Increases the contrast of elements on the website, making text and interface elements easier to distinguish.