The wild style of the men and women of the Congo
- Text by Miss Rosen
- Photography by Tariq Zaidi
![The wild style of the men and women of the Congo](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/04_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
After receiving his first camera at the age of 14, Tariq Zaidi dreamed of shooting for National Geographic. “Over the years I used to travel a lot,” he says. “My aim was to see the world, as many places as I could, travelling with a small backpack and just going.”
While traveling from Morocco to South Africa by land in 2013, Zaidi was dazzled by the sight of a Sapeur. Determined to learn more, in 2017, the photographer traveled to Brazzaville and Kinshasa to learn more about the Congolese fashion culture known as La Sape, “Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes” (Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People).
In Sapeurs: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo (Kehrer), Zaidi presents a series of stunning environmental portraits and interviews with members of La Sape in both cities. “Congolese people are known for taking pride in their appearance – yet La Sape takes the art of looking good to the next level,” Zaidi says.
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/10_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Nkodia Aurelie, 48-year-old businesswoman and Sapeuse for 36 years, in Brazzaville, 2019
“Being a Sapeur is about clothes, but it’s also about an attitude and a way of being in the world. It’s telling the world that no matter what my environmental condition is, I am still human, and I still have dreams and aspirations.”
Although most are day labourers, taxi drivers, and gardeners, Sapeurs don dapper designer suits that perfectly match their flamboyant personalities. And while dominated by men, in recent years more women (Sapeuses) and children have joined the scene, which Zaidi discovered by spending time with Sapeurs at home in their communities.
Creating this series posed its own unique set of challenges. Working in 35-40 degree heat, often in 60 per cent humidity, Zaidi was always on the move, walking for miles, fighting traffic, and dealing with visa problems and permits.
“It’s often difficult to get to their communities, which are usually hours away from a main road. They aren’t easy to shoot in either; the residents are often apprehensive of outsiders and security is also an issue. Many Sapeurs don’t own cell phones, so I had to send a scout to let them know I was coming,” Zaidi says.
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/09_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Israell Mbona, 5-year-old school student and Sapeur for three years, in Kinshasa, 2019
“Most work on Sapeurs is also just in Brazzaville, which is an ‘easier’ city to photograph in than Kinshasa, which is huge, busy and chaotic, and hard to get a visa for. This book has pictures from both cities and shows how the style is different: French-influenced classical in Brazzaville and more flamboyant and eccentric in Kinshasa – where anything goes.”
Popularised by Congolese rumba singer Papa Wemba, Sapologie is about putting together an exquisite look that suits one’s true personality. “Sapeurs are treated as rock stars in their community because they defy their material circumstances, so a lot of the thrill for them is the ‘celebrity’ aspect of it,” Zaidi says.
“But mainly it’s about asserting yourself boldly into the world. Their ideas come from themselves. They are aware of global fashion, but as Papa Wemba once said, ‘White people invented the clothes, but we make an art of it’.”
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/11_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1200&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Francis Okiemi, 14-year-old school student and Sapeur for three years, and Steven Okiemi, 9-year-old school student and Sapeur for one year, in Brazzaville, 2019
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/02_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Ntsimba Marie Jeanne, 52-year-old businesswoman and Sapeuse for 20 years, Okili Nkoressa,10-year-old school student and sapeur for 5 years, and Judith Nkoressa, 39-year-old policewoman and sapeuse for 18 years, in Brazzaville, 2017
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/01_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Elie Fontaine Nsassoni, 45-year-old taxi owner and Sapeur for 35 years, in Brazzaville, 2017
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/05_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Yamea Bansimba Jean Claude, 58-year-old bricklayer and Sapeur for 50 years, in Brazzaville, 2017
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/06_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Clementine Biniakoulou, 52-year-old housewife and Sapeuse for 36 years, in Brazzaville, 2017
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/08_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Ella Kiadi, 44-year-old businesswoman and Sapeuse for eight years, in Brazzaville, 2019
![](https://images.huckmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/07_sapeurs_rgb.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Basile Gandzion, 51-year-old human resources manager and Sapeur for 30 years, in Brazzaville, 2017
Sapeurs: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo is available now on Kehrer.
See more of Tariq Zaidi’s work on his Instagram.
Follow Miss Rosen on Twitter.
Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.
Latest on Huck
![Vote Progressive and Get Organised!](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/BLM_BW-16-copy.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Vote Progressive and Get Organised!
As the polls open for the general election, we endorse getting the Tories out, progressive candidates in and, most importantly, getting organised to bring about real change.
Written by: Huck
![Experts weigh in on key policies from the 2024 General Election Manifestos](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/Huck_Illo_ManifestoBreakdown_Header_240627.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
Experts weigh in on key policies from the 2024 General Election Manifestos
Stuck on who to vote for? Want to get more informed but feel overwhelmed by how much information there is? Or simply want to hear what experts think? Don’t worry! We got you!
Written by: Ben Smoke
![On the doorstep with Carla Denyer](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/Carla-Denyer-twitter.jpeg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
On the doorstep with Carla Denyer
With the Green Party co-leader potentially just days away from becoming a Member of Parliament we follow her on the campaign trail to talk about her motivations, her campaign and how she is preparing for what Friday brings.
Written by: Ben Smoke
![How activists have fought back against the escalating housing crisis](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/Huck_Cut_Out_Illo_3_240703.png?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
How activists have fought back against the escalating housing crisis
The last five years have seen astronomical rises in rents, evictions and spiralling rates of homelessness but communities have been organising, fighting back and, whisper it, winning.
Written by: Micha Frazer-Carroll
![I lost my home to crumbling cliffs – my coastal community is the canary in the coal mine](https://images.huckmag.com/tco/images/Huck/Huck_MissingVoices_WebHeader_240702.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=compress&format=jpg)
I lost my home to crumbling cliffs – my coastal community is the canary in the coal mine
After Kevin Jordan was made homeless by climate change he began organising to try and make those in power take the thread of the crisis seriously.
Written by: Kevin Jordan
In photos: The hopefuls looking to win big at the polls
A new project casts a light on those brave enough to put themselves forward for election whilst encouraging everyone to use their vote.
Written by: Josh Jones